Matsu is a fun getaway just 45 min. by plane from Taipei; here you can find traditional stone villages, bioluminescent “blue tears,” wild sika deer, military museums, the world’s largest Mazu statue, a variety of local food, and much more to explore.

Historical Background:

Thousands of years ago, stone-aged peoples once inhabited the Matsu Islands. These stone-aged people later disappeared. 
The Matsu islands were inhabited again around the Song Dynasty (990 – 1200 AD) by Chinese fishermen, the descendants of whom still inhabit the islands today. 
Because the Goddess Mazu’s corpse washed ashore on this island, Nangan is also known as Matsu Island. 
During the Chinese Civil War, Matsu was used as a military outpost for the retreating ROC. During the years that followed, it withheld shelling and threats of invasion from China, helping to keep Taiwan free of communist control.
In 1992 after cross-strait relations had warmed up, martial law was lifted on the islands and tourists were allowed to visit.
In the year 2000, a ferry link with Fuzhou started to provide constant China Mainland visitors to the island, as part of the three links with China. 
In 1994 Beigan Airport was opened and was the only airport in Matsu for 9 years. In 2003, the Nangan Airport was opened, which significantly lowered the number of travelers to Beigan. However fast and convenient boat travel has made it so that most tourists travel to both islands.

Matsu (or officially Lienchiang County of Fujian Province 連江縣) consists of 36 islands or islets, with 5 major islands: Nangan, Beigan, Xiju, Dongju, and Dongyin, and minor islands including Daqiu, Xiaoqiu, Gaodeng, and Liangdao.  
Nangan has a population of 4,000 people and is the largest island in Matsu in terms of population and geographical size. 
Beigan Island is the second largest island in Matsu (behind Nangan), and has a population of about 2,500.
Xiju and Dongju Islands sit next to each other and have a combined population of 1,500 people. 
Dongyin is the third largest island in terms of size and population, with about 1,300 people. 
Daqiu is a small island near Beigan with a population of 1 human and about 300 wild sika deer. Xiaoqiu is another small uninhabited rocky islet next to Daqiu. 
Gaodeng Island and Liangdao Islands are also sizable islands in the chain but are military islands that are currently closed off to tourists.

How to get there:

By Plane:

The easiest way to get around the islands is to take a plane from Songshan Airport or by boat from Taipei or Keelung Nangan and then go island hopping from there. Nangan is the main transportation hub for all the islands. Plane rides are about 2000 NT (one way from Taipei). There are flights to and from Taipei Songshan Airport three times a day via Uni Air. You can book flights on KKday here, Trip.com here, CheapO Air here, or Kiwi here.

By Ferry:

Ferry trips to Matsu are about 500-2000 NT per person (one way from Taipei or Keelung)
160 NT per person (one way from Beigan) You can book ferry tickets to Matsu on KKday here. 

Dongyin Island:
By Boat: There are daily ferries from Keelung Harbor that usually take an overnight trip to Nangan, passing through Dongyin Island. The price for a one-way ride is 400-2000 NT depending on the type of accommodation you want on the boat.  
Boats from Nangan leave twice a day and take 2 hours. The price for a one-way ride is 350 NT. 

Beigan Island:
By Boat: There are boats from Nangan Fu’Ao Harbor (南竿福奧港) to Beigan Baisha Harbor (北竿白沙港) every hour from 7 AM to 5 PM. There are no daily routes to Beigan from other islands (except Daqiu). 
You can book tickets between Nangan and Beigan Islands on KKday here. 
By Plane: There are flights to and from Taipei Songshan Airport three times a day via Uni Air. You can book flights on KKday here, Trip.com here, CheapO Air here, or Kiwi here.

Daiqu Island:
Public Ferry from Nangan Fu’Ao Harbor (福澳港) (April to October):
350 NT round trip per person （Stops at Baisha Harbor in Nangan)
Nangan departure times: 9:50 AM, 1:30 PM, Daqiu departure times: 12:10 Noon, 3:40 PM
Trip takes about 20 minutes.
You can book a ferry to Daqiu Island on KKday here. 

Public Ferry from Beigan Qiaozi Harbor (橋仔港)  (May to October):
300 NT round trip per person
Beigan departure times: 8:30 AM, 2:30 PM, Daqiu departure times: 10:30 AM, 4:30 PM
https://hotels.matsu.idv.tw/ferry.php 
Trip takes about 10 minutes. 
Chartered ferries: Around 300 NT per round trip.
You can book tickets between Nangan and Beigan Islands on KKday here. 

Nangan Island:
By Boat: There are daily ferries from Taipei or Keelung that usually take an overnight trip to Nangan, passing through Dongyin Island. 
There are boats from Beigan Baisha Harbor (北竿白沙港) to Nangan Fu’Ao Harbor (南竿福奧港) every hour from 7 AM to 5 PM. 
You can book tickets between Nangan and Beigan Islands on KKday here. 
By Plane: There are flights to and from Taipei Songshan Airport three times a day via Uni Air. You can book flights on KKday here, Trip.com here, CheapO Air here, or Kiwi here.

Dongju and Xiju Islands:
By Boat: Ferries from Nangan leave every 3 hours, with three trips per day. The trip takes about an hour. Price is 200 NT one way. 

How to get around the islands:

Matsu has large, hilly islands and it would be very hard to get around on foot or bicycle. We recommend one of the following.
By Ferries: The only way to get to smaller islands without airports is by ferry. You can check KKday here for ferry tickets or buy them at the harbor. 
By Scooter: We recommend riding a scooter as your #1 choice. It’s fast, and convenient, and there isn’t much traffic on the island. A scooter will cost about 500 NT per day to rent.
You can rent a scooter on Klook here or KKday here. 
When braking on hills, use both brakes, otherwise, you could lose traction on one tire and skid. Don’t stop or park on a slope. Also, some hills that are too steep are closed off for scooters.
You can also check out our scooter rental guide here. 
By Car/Taxi: You can rent a car or hire a taxi for 200O NT per day. If you are looking for car rentals, you can also search Qeeq here, Klook here, or  KKday here. You can also check out our car rental guide here.  
By Bus: There are buses that go around the islands, but wait times can be 30 minutes or more. 
By Bicycle: Cycling is the best way to enjoy Taiwan’s landscapes if you have the time and energy. Looking for bicycle rentals in Taiwan? You can search on KKday here and search for tours on Klook here. You can also check out our Taiwan cycling guide here. 

Where to Stay:

We have stayed at and recommend Fu Hwa Homestay​ on Nangan and B&B of Blueshine​ on Beigan. Both places were excellent and provided us a car ride to and from the airport for free. 
You can also check out our Taiwan hotel guide here.
Looking for a hotel? We recommend booking through Agoda here, which provides the best quality selection of accommodation on the island. 

When to go:

We recommend going between April and June when the “blue tear” phosphorescent microbes in the water will be the most visible at night. Also, winters can be cold and windy, and summers very hot, and there could also be typhoons in the summer and fall. 

Tours and Activities:

Beihai Tunnel Rocking Boat: about 150 NT
Blue Tears Museum: about 300 NT
SUP/Paddle experience: about 2300 NT
You can search for other tours and activities on KKday here or Klook here. 

Map:

Please see below:

Matsu In General:

If you are going to all the islands in Matsu, it should take you at least 4 days, two of which you will be on a boat for most of the day (to Dongju, Xiju, and Dongyin). For this reason, we skipped Dongju, Xiju, and Dongyin. Maybe we will cover them on a later trip, but for now, our guide covers the following: 

Blue Tears 藍眼淚

We went in late July, but the high season for blue tears is April to June. We could see them with the naked eye, but they don’t show up well on camera. This is the best photo that I got of the blue tears. The best photos are those that are far away from light sources. You will need a trip and an SLR camera that can adjust for a long shutter speed. Also, you will need another light source to make sure you have the right focus. (Read More…)

You can book a ticket to the Blue Tears Museum here.

Seafood 海鮮

Matsu is known for its fresh and delicious seafood, like this mussel (淡菜). These mussels were delicious, but a little expensive at 200 NT for just one plate of them. ​​(Read More…)

Matsu Hamburger 馬祖漢堡

The Matsu Hamburger is a popular food on the islands and is actually called “Jiguang Bread” in Fujian. It was used as food for soldiers because it had a hole in it, making it easy to carry around. It is named after Qi  Jiguang, a successful Ming Dynasty General who drove out the Wokou Pirates that had invaded Fujian in the mid-1500s AD. During the fighting, he invented what is now the Matsu Hamburger by commanding his men to make a portable salty bun with flour because he needed to move quickly. Now the people in Fujian all make this “Jiguang Bun” in remembrance of Qi Jiguang who drove the pirates out of Fujian. The bun is also made in Matsu, which was once part of Fujian and has been known to mainland Taiwanese as the Matsu Hamburger. (Read More…)

​Traditional Stone Houses 傳統石頭屋

Most of the houses in Matsu are built in traditional Fujian, Fuzhou style with a square design tile roofs, and rocks holding down the tiles in case of winds. The stones are made from local granite or sandstone that is plentiful on the islands. Some of the best-preserved villages are in Beigan, but you can find these houses on every island in Matsu. Many of these houses are hundreds of years old. (Read More…)

Daqiu Island 大坵島

Daqiu Island is a small island in Matsu (Lienchiang County), Taiwan that is home to hundreds of wild Sika Deer, and is a “deer watching paradise.“ Once home to a small village, then ROC military base, this island is now home to only one man that takes care of the hundreds of deer on the small island. It is a worth while day trip for anyone visiting the Matsu Islands.
It was definitely the highlight of our entire trip to Matsu. (Read more)

Sika Deer 梅花鹿

Sika Deer were originally raised in Matsu during the Chinese Civil War (1950-1970s) as a food supply for soldiers to eat. However the soldiers did not like deer meat that much, and as tensions with China eased, the practice was discontinued. The 13 deer that remained were sent to Daqiu Island in 1981 and left to become wild. Now there are around 200 deer living on the island. (Read more)

Daqiu Abandoned Military Base 廢墟軍事基地

On top of Daqiu Island is an abandoned fort, called Daiu Fort (大坵堡), it is a popular selfie and photo opportunity spot. (Read more)

​Daqiu Abandoned Fishing Village 廢墟漁村

Near the fishing port at Daqiu Island you can find quite a few abandoned houses, leftover from a fishing village that housed close to 300 people but is now abandoned. (Read more)

Beigan Island 北竿島

Beigan Island is one of the two largest Islands in Matsu (officailly Lienchiang County, Taiwan), and has some of the best preserved traditional stone made fishing villages on the islands. There are also many historical military sites, as the islands were part of the front line during the Chinese Civil War. It is easily accessible via airplane or boat from Taipei. 

Tangqi Village 塘崎村

Tangqi Village is the largest and most modern village on Beigan Island. Traditional stone houses have largely been replaced by modern buildings. This town has the airport, post office, government buildings, and lots of restaurants, not to mention 7-11, one of only two on the island. (Read More…)

Qinbi Village 芹壁聚落

Qinbi village in Beigan is one of the most popular tourist sites on the islands, and is known as “A Mediterranean Village in Matsu” and “the most representative traditional architecture in all of Matsu, with well-preserved houses that are the focus of attention by architecture, art, and culture circles in Taiwan and overseas.” (Read More…)

Mastu Broadcasting Station 馬祖廣播站

Much like the famous Beishan Broadcasting Tower in Kinmen, the Matsu Broadcasting Tower is a tower with many megaphones that broadcasts anti-communist propaganda and popular Taiwanese music to China, only a few kilometers across the water. Now there is an artsy display on the side of the road. (Read More…)

Mount Bi 壁山

Mount Bi is the highest Island in the Matsu Islands and has great views to the east. You can’t get a 360 view because there is a military base on the tip top and taking photos there is not allowed. (Read More…)

War and Peace Memorial Exhibition Center 戰爭和平紀念公園主題館

Located at the back of Houwo Village, the War Memorial Peace Park displays weaponry, strongholds, and military tunnels. Entrance to the war museum is free, and it is the best place to understand the war history of Matsu. (Read More…)

War and Peace Memorial Park 戰爭和平紀念公園

If you keep traveling past the exhibition hall, you will find a park filled with all kinds of retired war machines. Here you can learn more about the war machines that help protect Matsu in the recent past. (Read More…)

Nangan Island 南竿島

Nangan is the largest Island in the Matsu Archipelago. Besides being the main transportation hub to the other islands in Matsu, it also has traditional stone house villages, military  museums, a giant statue of Mazu, a variety of local food, and much more to explore. You can check out our full guide to Nangan Island here.

Mazu Religious and Cultural Park 媽祖宗教文化園區

The Mazu Religious and Cultural Park mainly consists of a large statue of Mazu and the temple where Mazu’s body was buried. The statue of Mazu is 28.8 meters tall and is the tallest statue of Mazu in the world. It was completed in 2008. (Read more…)

​Zhenghe Daidan Memorial Park 枕戈待旦紀念公園

When you come into Nangan by boat, you are greeted by a giant sign on a hill that says “Sleep on your spears” (Zhenghe Daidan 枕戈待旦). Nangan was and is very much a military island. 
You can also see a statue of the late KMT dictator Chiang Kai-shek with a giant staircase winding up to him. (Read more…)

Magang Qinguang Night Market 馬港親光夜市

Magang Qinguang Night Market is probably the only real night market in Matsu. It is a street in Magang Village, with both sides filled with restaurants and tourist shops. There is also a 7-11 here. ​​(Read more…)

Matsu Tianhou Temple 媽祖天后宮

The Sea Goddess Mazu’s body is thought to have washed up on shore near here, and her corpse was placed in this temple. Her real name was Lin Moniang, and she is thought to have lived in the late 900s AD, which would mean this temple is very old. Now there are many Mazu temples around Taiwan and around the world. (Read more…)

​​​Jinsha Village 津沙聚落

Jinsha village is perhaps the best preserved traditional stone village in Nangan. Much of Nangan has been modernized, but you can still find a mostly preserved historical village here. (Read more…)

Iron Fort 鐵堡

Iron Fort is one of the most popular historic military attractions on Matsu. It is completely open to the public, In its time, it also saw some real action from Chinese amphibious soldiers. ​(Read more…)

​​Beihai Tunnel 北海坑道

Beihai Tunnel is a nearly 1km long tunnel connected to the sea that was used to safeguard ships from artillery and air raids. Now it is a tourist destination, and canoe tours are available. ​(Read more…)

You can book a Beihai Tunnel Rocking Boat experience 
here.

​Dahan Stronghold 大漢據點

Dahan Stronghold is likely the largest fort/tunnel system open to the public in Matsu. Inside you can see old artillery platforms and feel what it was like to be a soldier in Matsu during the Chinese Civil War. ​(Read more…)

​Jieshou Village 介壽村

Jieshou village is the largest village in Nangan with the most modern amenities, such as Bafang Dumplings, 7-11, and a fruit and vegetable market. (Read more…)

Tunnel 88 八八坑道

Tunnel 88 is an old tunnel that was once used for the military but is now used to ferment local wine and whiskey. ​(Read more…)

​Niujiao Village 牛角聚落

Niujiao is also a historic stone village on the northeast coast of the island. It has some well preserved stone buildings, and the beach here is popular for watching blue tears. ​​(Read more…)

Mt. Yuntai 雲臺山

Mt. Yuntai is the tallest mountain on Nangan and has the best views of the island. There is also a war museum here that is only open to Taiwan nationals. 
(Read more…)

Matsu Folk Culture Museum 馬祖民俗文物舘

The Matsu Folk Culture Museum in Nangan is definitley worth a visit. The outside of the building is meant to look like a traditional stone village. There is also some interesting stuff on the inside too. The entrance fee is 40 NT per person, and it is open until 5 PM. (Read more…)

Chiang Chin-kuo Memorial Hall 經國先生紀念堂

The Chiang Ching-kuo memorial hall is one of the weirdest sites on the island. We all know that CKS memorial hall in Taipei, but his son’s memorial hall in Nangan is much less well known. (Read more…)

Things We Missed:

Activites:

• Beihai Tunnel Rocking Boat
• SUP/Paddle experience
• Blue Tears Museum

​Dongyin Island:

• Northernmost point in Taiwan 國之北疆
• Sanshan Fort 三山據點
• Andong Tunnel 安東坑道

Dongju Island

• Dongshou Lighthouse 東獸燈塔
• Secret Little Bay 神秘小海灣
• Fuzheng Village 福正聚落
• Dapu Ancient Village 大浦村古聚落

​Xiju Island:

• Kunqiu Sand dunes 坤坵沙灘

You can search for other tours and activities on KKday here or Klook here. 
​
Thanks for reading! For our full blog on Beigan Island click here, for our full blog on Daqiu Island Click here, or for our full blog on Nangan Island click here.

You can also check out our full guide to all of Taiwan’s outer islands here. 

You can also check out our full travel guide to Taiwan here. ​​

Typhoon Usagi was the 25th tropical cyclone of the 2024 Pacific Typhoon Season. It made landfall in the Philippines and dumped rain onto Southern Taiwan before dissipating into oblivion. For the first time in recorded history, four tropical cyclones simultaneously existed in the Western Pacific during the month of November. In this blog, we will share some memories of this storm and its impact on Taiwan.

Storm Formation and Path

Tropical Depression Igme became a depression on November 9th, 2024, and was upgraded to a tropical storm on November 10th. On November 12th, it strengthened into a Typhoon. Usagi was one of four tropical cyclones to simultaneously exist in the Western Pacific during the month of November for the first time in recorded history. Two people were killed due to the storm in the Philippines but none in Taiwan.

Early forecast models predicted that the storm would graze the east coast of Taiwan as a strong Typhoon. As you will see, that did not happen.

Originally the track for the Typhoon showed that it would move fast and strong toward Japan.

However, the Typhoon deviated west from the original track to the west part of Taiwan, where Typhoons go to die.

Originally it was predicted that the Typhoon would continue east after hitting the Hengchun Peninsula.

However, the Typhoon died before it could make landfall. It was downgraded back to a tropical depression and dissipated right before the center of the storm reached the Hengchun Peninsula.

My Experience

I was in Taipei during this storm. It was calm, dry, and windy in Taipei from November 15-17th. I was afraid my trip to Hualien would be ruined. However, the typhoon had very little effect on Hualien which mostly remained dry, so my vacation plans were salvaged. The Typhoon quickly disappeared and Taiwan began to see northeasterly winds due to another Typhoon down south, Typhoon Manyi.

Rainfall Totals

Over 400 mm of rain fell in southern Taiwan due to the Typhoon, which is not a whole lot compared with other Typhoons.

Radar Track and Rainfall Totals

Meme

Usagi means rabbit in Japanese, so someone had to make this meme.

Safety Precautions During a Typhoon

• Secure loose outside objects
• If you live on the first floor of a flood-prone area, move as many valuables and important objects to higher floors as possible.
• Park your car/scooter on high ground
• Avoid going outside for your safety
• Stay out of the mountains
• Stay away from the ocean
• Have enough dry food and water ready for three days (72 hours) in case water and electricity are cut off.

If you follow the above rules, most Typhoons in Taiwan will not be dangerous. Also, most buildings in Taiwan are built with reinforced concrete that can withstand even the strongest winds, so stay indoors and you will be fine.

Conclusion

This was a small storm and died quickly after dumping a moderate amount of heavy rain on southern Taiwan for about 24 hours. This storm is sure to be quickly forgotten in Taiwan, but we are all grateful it did not turn out to be worse.

The Penghu Islands （澎湖英文）are the best island vacation getaway in Taiwan. Only an hour’s plane ride from Taipei, these islands provide multiple world-class beaches, as well as snorkeling, diving, windsurfing, and other water activities. In addition, there are lots of restaurants, interesting historical sights, and accommodation options on these islands. Overall it is an ideal island vacation getaway that you should not miss.

Historical Background:

The Penghu Islands were historically an important strategic position for trade and military defense in the area. The Dutch, French, and Japanese all led campaigns against these islands. The Dutch first invaded Penghu in 1622, but soon after retreated to Anping after a treaty was made with the Ming Dynasty.
Konxinga later took control of Penghu and Taiwan after defeating the Dutch in 1661, Later, Kongxinga’s kingdom fell to the Qing Dynasty.
In 1885 during the Sino-French war for control of Vietnam, the French sent a fleet to Taiwan but failed to take the island. Later they attacked the Penghu Islands and occupied them for a short time, before retreating to Vietnam due to the Treaty of Tianjin.
After Japan took control of Korea in 1894, they also attacked and occupied Penghu in 1895, after which the Qing Dynasty ceded the islands to them.
After World War II, the islands were given to the ROC government, which retreated to Taiwan after the Chinese Civil War and still controls the islands today under a free democratic government.

Activities:

Besides soaking in sun rays at the beach, there are many activities available in Penghu such as snorkeling, diving, wind surfing, sailing, canoeing, wakeboarding, massage, yachting, glamping, trampoline Water Sports, SUP / Paddle Boarding, kayaking, night fishing and more on Klook here or KKday here. 

Tours:

There are many tours and activities available on the islands such as Island Hopping Tour, starlight Marine Ranch, seafood Barbeque, Sheraton Four Points Eatery, Dragon Palace Intertidal Zone, Jibei Sand Tail, and many more options on Klook here or KKday here. 
​For more information, look at other tour/ferry sites or book a personalized tour with Klook here or KKday here. 

Where to Stay:

We have stayed at and recommend Han’s Hostel which had great service and is right next to Shanshui Beach, the best beach in Penghu (you can book on Agoda here, Booking.com here, or Trip.com here) a newly renovated homestay in downtown Magong with great service and great prices (you can book on Agoda here or Booking.com here). 
Looking for a hotel? We recommend booking through Agoda here, which provides the best quality selection of accommodation on the islands. 
You can also find out more about where to stay in our Taiwan hotels guide here.

When to go to Penghu:

The best time to go is Autumn. Spring is also a nice time to go, but there is a greater chance of spring showers during that time. The summers may be too hot, and winters too cold and windy.

How to get there:

By Plane: 
There are daily flights from Taipei Songshan, Taichung, and Kaohsiung airports to Makung. the flight takes roughly under an hour. Rates can range from around 2200-6000 NT for a round trip. There are also flights to and from Chiayi, Tainan, Kinmen, and Chimei, with charted flights to Hong Kong starting September 2018.
There are flights to and from Taipei Songshan Airport three times a day via Uni Air. You can book flights on KKday here, Trip.com here, CheapO Air here, or Kiwi here.
By Boat: There are daily ferries from Chiayi and Kaohsiung. A one-way trip takes about 4 hours from both locations. A one-way ferry from Kaohsiung costs about 900 NT for just a reclining seat, and a one-way ferry from Chiayi costs about 1000 NT.
You can book ferry boat tickets from Chiayi on Klook here, or ferry boat tickets from Tainan on KKday here.  

Getting Around on the Islands:

By Ferry Boat: The only way to get to smaller islands without airports is by ferry. You can check Klook here or KKday here for ferry tickets or buy them at the harbor. 
By Scooter: We recommend taking a scooter as the most efficient and convenient type of transport on the islands. However, most places require a local scooter license. You can rent a scooter for Penghu on Klook here or on KKday here. You can also check out our scooter rental guide here. 
By Car/taxi: A car is also sensible in Penghu because the main island is pretty spread out. You can rent a car for Penghu on Klook here or on KKday here. You can also check out our car rental guide here.  
By Bus: a bus is possible on the main island, but it will be slower and more unpredictable. 
By Bicycle: Cycling is the best way to enjoy Taiwan’s landscapes if you have the time and energy. Looking for bicycle rentals in Taiwan? You can search on KKday here and search for tours on Klook here. You can also check out our Taiwan cycling guide here. 

Map:

Please see a list of places we will cover in the map below: