Ci En Pagoda 慈恩塔: Enjoy the Best Views of Sun Moon Lake

Background:

Sun Moon Lake (aka Zintun in the local Thao language) is the largest natural lake in Taiwan and home of the aboriginal Thao tribe. According to legend, a white deer led the tribe to the lake and is now trapped in a marble stone on Lalu Island, which is sacred ground to them.
The name “Sun Moon Lake” comes from the different colors of the water in the lake, some of it being murky and on other parts of the lake, clear. Another account says that the name comes from parts of the lake being round like the sun, and other parts of the lake being curved like the moon.
The first hydroelectric plant was built on the lake in 1919 by the Japanese, and it was later taken over by the ROC government. The hydroelectric power is part of a system of hydropower plants running from Wushe to Sun Moon Lake down to Shuili Township and includes at least 8 plants.
Sun Moon Lake Scenic area was created in 2000. The lake attracts visitors from around the world year-round for its beauty and surrounding sights and is also known for the annual Sun Moon Lake Swimming Carnival which thousands of people attend each year.

Cien Pagoda, located near Sun Moon Lake in Yuchi Township, Nantou County, Taiwan, is one of the lake’s most iconic landmarks. Completed in January 1971, it was built by former President Chiang Kai-shek to honor his late mother, Madam Wang. The nine-story Chinese-style pagoda stands on Mount Shabalan (also known as Mount Erlong) at an elevation of 954 meters, with its top reaching 1,000 meters above sea level. Visitors can reach it via a 570-meter forest trail from the parking area, which is also a popular spot for stargazing and firefly watching in early summer. The pagoda’s entrance bears Chiang’s own calligraphy, and from the top, one can see Sun Moon Lake, Lalu Island, Xuanguang Temple, and Xuanzang Temple aligned along a central axis. The upper two floors serve as a memorial hall for Chiang’s mother, while a nearby two-story memorial building contains her portrait, photos of the tower’s construction, and Chiang’s handwritten notes.

Price:

Scenic Area Entrance: Free
Parking: Around 100 NT per day for cars
Ferry Ride (starting at Shuitou Pier): 300 NT per person. You can book tickets for a discount on Klook here.
Paddle Boat Ride: 300 NT per person
Gondola Ride (Ropeway): 500 NT per person
Formosan Aboriginal Cultural Village: 980 NT per person. You can book tickets for a discount on Klook here.

Hours:

Ci En Pagoda: 9 AM to 4:30 PM
Parking: 24/7
Boat Ride: roughly 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM every day
Gondola Ride: 10:30 AM – 4:00 PM every day
Formosan Aboriginal Cultural Village: 9:30 AM- 5 PM every day

Tours:

There are many tours and activities available at Sun Moon Lake such as SUP / standup Paddleboarding, Electric Boating, Canoeing, and Paddle Boarding, Water bike experience, Ebike Rental, and Kayaking
You can find more tours of Nantou on Klook here or KKday here.

Cherry Blossom Season:

Cherry Blossoms can be seen in the park from February to late March. Check out our full guide to Cherry Blossom Season in Taiwan here. 

Firefly Season

Firefly season at Sun Moon Lake is from May to June. Check out our firefly season guide here.

Where to Stay:

We have stayed at and recommend Kirin Villa (you can book on Agoda here or Booking.com here), a mountain resort in Puli near Sun Moon Lake.
Looking for a hotel? Find out where to stay in our Taiwan hotels guide or search for the best hotel deals in Taiwan here. We recommend booking through Agoda here, which provides the best quality selection of accommodation on the islands.

How to get there:

Bus: There are buses (Ubus/Kbus/etc) that leave all day from Taichung Station. You can book tickets to travel to Nantou via inter-city bus on Klook here.
You can book tickets to Taichung via high-speed rail (HSR) on Klook here or KKDay here, or book tickets via the normal train (TRA) on Klook here, then switch to a bus to Nantou.
By Car/Scooter: Take National Highway 6 from Taichung up to Puli, and then follow the signs on Highway 21 down to Sun Moon Lake. You can also take a car/scooter up Highway 21 from Shuili Township further south. If you are looking for car rentals, you can also search Qeeq here, Klook here, KKday here. You can also check out our car rental guide here. Looking for scooter rental in Nantou? Search Klook here or KKday here to search for options. You can also check out our scooter rental guide here.
Boat: You can circle the lake via three spots: Shuise Pier, Xuanguang Pier, and Ita Thao Pier.
Bicycle Rental: Cycling is the best way to enjoy Taiwan’s landscapes if you have the time and energy. Looking for bicycle rentals in Taiwan? You can search on KKday here and search for tours on Klook here. You can also check out our Taiwan cycling guide here.

Map:

Check out the map above.

Drone Footage:

Play

You can also check out our 360 degree panorama above.

Our Journey:

I have been to Cien Pagoda three times. There are always great views every time. The top of the tower has some of the best views of Sun Moon Lake. I highly recommend checking it out. The hike is not very long either, but there are some steps.

View as we entered the Sun Moon Lake Scenic Area.

Ci En Pagoda as seen from Wenwu Temple.

There is a small parking lot in front of the trailhead to Cien Pagoda, and it might get full on busy holidays.

Map showing the parking lot and trail to get to Cien Pagoda.

Right away, we can start seeing views of the lake.

Bamboo in the forest here.

First view of Cien Pagoda through the foliage.

Some bamboo had fallen across the trail.

Two trees had also fallen near the trail.

There is also a pavilion here to rest on.

Fallen trees that once blocked the trail had been removed.

Another view of the bamboo.

More views of Sun Moon Lake.

Last leg up the trail.

It is a 570 meter walk back to the parking lot.

In front of the pagoda is a large sandy courtyard.

Front of the pagoda.

Side view of the pagoda.

Full frontal view of the pagoda.

Horizontal frame.

The main entrance.

Tarraces on either side, great for a group photo.

View outside.

View of the winding staircase to the top.

Note that you can only enter the pagoda from 9 AM to 4:30 PM.

After 4:30 PM, they will shut this iron gate.

View of the iron gate.

View from the top.

Good thing they put safety nets up here.

View from the back.

View over the lake.

East side of the lake.

North side of the lake.

South side of the lake.

Closeup on some fishing houses down there.

View of mountains to the south.

View looking south.

Better image from a different day.

Selfie Takers.

View of downtown.

A giant bell you could once ring.

Roof of the Pagoda.

View looking straight down the stairs.

View looking out one of the middle floors.

View from the bottom looking up.

There used to be access to a toilet, but it was under maintenece when we visited.

View out the back balcony.

Another photo from a different day.

The back building here seemed to be out of use.

Little Lanterns in the Darkness – Common Fireflies of Sun Moon Lake
Fireflies like to live in humid, pollution-free conditions, and are therefore considered as an indicator of a healthy environment.
Fireflies are soft-bodied beetles, belonging to the family Lampyridae, with the butterfly-like appearance.
Through a chemical reaction inside their bodies, fireflies produce the glowing phosphorescence that we see.
Three of Sun Moon Lake’s most commonly seen species are the Black Wing Firefly, the Red Tail Firefly, and the Yellow Margin Firefly.
The Oriental Firefly, which can be seen from April to June, is a daytime firefly, while the others are nocturnal, including the Black Wing Firefly and the little glow worm.
The best time to observe them is from April through July.

Black Wing Firefly
Luciola cerata
Red Tail Firefly
Pyrocoelia analis

And then we began our walk back.

Last view of the lake.

We made it back to the parking lot.

Closeup on Ci En Tower as seen from the lake.

And then we continued our journey onward. Xuanguang pier was kind of a dud, but Ci En Pagoda is worth visiting.

Aerial view of the pagoda.

Another view.

View closer to the tower.

One last shot from higher up.

You can see more photos above for your viewing pleasure.

Check out our full guide to Sun Moon Lake here.

Check out our full guide to Nantou County here.

Check out our guide to Taiwan here.