Sanwan Old Street 三灣老街

Historical Background:

Sanwan Township (三灣鄉) gets its name from the Zhonggang River (中港溪), which makes three large bends—Neiwan (內灣), Erwan (二灣), and Sanwan (三灣)—as it flows through the area, depositing rich alluvial plains. These plains became the first places where early settlers cleared land and established villages. Each river bend provided open fields suitable for settlement and farming, and because this area lay at the third bend, it was named Sanwan, meaning “the third bend.”

During the late Ming dynasty, Han Chinese migrants crossed the sea to Taiwan, first settling in Zhukei (竹塹, modern Hsinchu). By the Qing dynasty under the Qianlong Emperor, settlers moved to Zhonggang (中港, today’s Zhunan) and then traveled upstream along the Zhonggang River through Toufen and Neiwan before reaching present-day Sanwan, and later expanding toward Tianwei and Nanzhuang. Most residents of Sanwan are Hakka (客家人), with ancestral roots mainly in Meixian (梅縣) and Jiaoling (蕉嶺) in Guangdong, as well as Haifeng, Lufeng, Raoping, Wuhua, parts of Fujian’s Tingzhou (汀州), and Jiangxi. Traditionally, the people are known for their diligence, frugality, strong sense of community, and adherence to Hakka customs. Farming has long been the main occupation, though in recent years some residents have shifted to commerce or moved to cities, leading to a shortage of agricultural labor.

A notable local landmark is Yonghe Mountain Reservoir (永和山水庫), located on the border of Toufen and Sanwan. It is a typical off-stream reservoir (離槽水庫) that draws water from the upper Zhonggang River via an 11-kilometer diversion canal, reducing sediment buildup and helping maintain clean water quality. Surrounded by dense forests, the reservoir area is ecologically rich, home to over 130 bird species and many other plants and animals. Each winter, 600 to 1,000 cormorants (鸕鶿) migrate here, making it an especially valuable site for birdwatching, with interpretive signs installed by the Miaoli County Wild Bird Society for self-guided ecological tours.

Sanwan Township is located at the northern end of Miaoli County, Taiwan, covering about 52 square kilometers along the middle reaches of the Zhonggang River. It is a hilly, agricultural area bordered by Toufen City, Zaoqiao, Shitan, Nanzhuang, and Emei Township in Hsinchu County, with a rainy season from May to September. The township is notable for having the highest proportion of Hakka residents in Taiwan, with Hakka people making up about 99% of its population. The name “Sanwan” (meaning “three bends”) comes from three large bends of the Zhonggang River that created fertile plains where early settlers established villages. As of late 2025, Sanwan has around 5,700 residents in about 2,300 households, with most engaged in agriculture. The township consists of eight villages, has a gradually declining population, and is served by provincial and county highways, bus routes, and local roads, with nearby attractions including Yonghe Mountain Reservoir, forest trails, temples, and well-known agricultural products such as pears, rice, strawberries, and free-range chicken.

Hours:

24/7

Price:

Free

Cherry Blossom Season:

Cherry Blossoms can be seen here from February to late March. Check out our full guide to Cherry Blossom Season in Taiwan here. 

Firefly Season:

Firefly season is from May to June. Check out our firefly season guide here. 

Where to stay:

We have stayed at and recommend Beautiful Landscape Resort, a fish farm and resort near Nanzhuang Old Street (you can book on Agoda here or Booking.com here), and Yuan Motel, a high-class car motel which includes a great breakfast buffet (you can book on Agoda here or Booking.com here). We also recommend Flying Cow Ranch which includes cabins and camping right on the tourist ranch; you can book a room on Agoda here, Booking.com here, or Trip.com here. 
Looking for a hotel? Find out where to stay in our Taiwan hotels guide or search for the best hotel deals in Taiwan here.

Activities in Miaoli:

There are many tours and activities available in Miaoli such as Schokolake Chocolate Factory, Shangshun World, West Lake Resortopia, Suweila Manor, Baba Kengdao, Hobbit Valley, Zhuo Ye Cottage Duck Box and more on Klook here or KKday here. 

How to get there:

By Car/Scooter: From Zhunan, take Provincial Highway 3 to Sanwan.
Looking for scooter rental in Miaoli? You can search on Klook here or KKday here to search for options. You can also check out our scooter rental guide here. 
If you are looking for car rentals, you can also search Qeeq here, Klook here, or  KKday here. You can also check out our car rental guide here.  
By TRB/Bus: From Zhunan station, take bus 5806 to Sanwan Station. The whole trip should take less than an hour, one way. You can also book a TRB travel pass on Klook here.
By Bicycle: 
Cycling is the best way to enjoy Taiwan’s landscapes if you have the time and energy. Looking for bicycle rentals in Taiwan? You can use Taiwan’s many Youbike sharing stations, or search for rentals on KKday here, and search for tours on Klook here. You can also check out our Taiwan cycling guide here. You can also book a Sunset Riverside Bike Ride and Historical Tour, 4 Hour Cycling in Taipei, Ultimate 8-Hour Cycling City Tour, or Taipei City Bike Tour with Night Market Experience on TripAdvisor here. 
For more information, check out our Taiwan transportation guide here. 

Map:

Please see below:

Our Journey:

We have been to Sanwan Old Street only once on our way to Nanzhuang. It looks like many other small towns in Taiwan, but it is a little different because it sits upon hilly terrain, and you can see great views of the surrounding valley. There are not many shops or tourists here, but if you love history, then this may be a place worth exploring.

The sign to the old street sits on the side of the road here, next to a pavilion.

The pavilion here overlooks a valley that is filled with farm land. If this valley were in Taipei, it would almost certainly be covered in concrete and high-rises.

Coming from Taipei, this is a nice break from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Map of Sanwan Village. Here you can see that the old street main road, officially Zhongshan Road, is also known as Miaokou Old Street (literally street in front of the temple).

Sanwan Wugu Temple 三灣五穀廟

Wugu (五穀) literally means “the Five Grains.” In traditional Chinese culture, it refers to the staple crops that sustained early agrarian society and symbolized food security, prosperity, and survival.

The exact list of the five grains varies by time and region, but it commonly includes:

Rice (稻)

Millet (黍 or 稷)

Wheat (麥)

Beans (豆)

Sorghum or another millet-type grain (often 粟)

The Wugu Temple (五穀廟) in Sanwan is dedicated to Shennong, the Yan Emperor (炎帝神農氏), the agricultural deity who was central to belief in Taiwan’s early farming society, as settlers who reclaimed land along the Zhonggang River prayed to him for good weather and abundant harvests. Because traveling on foot to worship at the Wugu Temple in Zhunan was difficult, locals petitioned for a spiritual branch of Shennong to be established in Sanwan, leading to the temple’s founding in 1852 during the Qing dynasty; it was destroyed in the 1935 Hsinchu earthquake, rebuilt after the war, and reconstructed into its present two-story form in 1980. The first floor, Chongxian Hall (崇仙宮), enshrines Zhen Nai Xianweng (真乃仙翁), while the second floor honors Shennong the Great Emperor (神農大帝) alongside deities such as the Three Officials (三官大帝), Guanyin (觀世音菩薩), Mazu (天上聖母), Wenchang (文昌帝君), and others; the temple also preserves historically significant longevity tablets (長生祿位) for Qing-era figures Li Shenyi (李慎彝) and Xiang Renyi (向仁鎰) in recognition of their contributions to early settlement. Renowned for its ornate carvings and historic plaques, including the 1894 inscription “You Wo Wu Jiang” (佑我無疆), the temple remains a focal point of local faith and culture, with a major celebration held each year on the 26th day of the fourth lunar month to mark Shennong’s birthday, making it an important site for understanding Sanwan’s agricultural history and human heritage.

Sign to a local restaurant called “A mao sao’s place.”

The street is made of bricks here, which tells you that its the old street.

Old people resting near the river valley.

Here you can see a communal area with some sun covering. Maybe they have annual events here.

Sign pointing to nearby temples and a park. With someone hanging their clothes here.

Public toilet along the old street.

Another view down the old street.

At the end of the old street, you can see a wet market area which was closed when we visited.

View of the street in front of the vegetable market.

View of the main Sanwan’s Main Street, Zhongzheng Road, which has many more food options, and many places where you can find authentic Hakka cuisine.

Shitoushan (Lion Head Mountain) 獅頭山

Nearby, you can also check out Shitoushan in Miaoli, which is a popular hiking destination near Nanzhuang Old Street, one of Taiwan’s lesser 100 peaks, and has one of the highest concentrations of temples for any hiking trail in Taiwan. Here you can get away from it all and be swept up in the rugged beauty of Taiwan’s central foothills. It is definitely a worthwhile adventure for any traveler…(read more)

Nanzhuang Old Street 南庒老街

You can also check out Nanzhuang Old Street, which is a large tourist street and shopping area in central Miaoli. It is actually three old streets combined into one, and includes a night market too. You can find all kinds of food options here, and authentic Hakka dishes. Nearby, you can also find amazing hiking trails and mountain scenery to enjoy…(read more)

Check out our full travel guide to Miaoli here.

You can also check out our full travel guide to Taiwan here.